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Mod G Essay Topic

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My hackintosh in Power Mac G5 Enclosure - Mods and Overclocking - InsanelyMac Forum

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glay78 19 Sep 2009

I love the Power Mac G5 and Mac Pro's enclosure, the aluminum finish and the design is so damn nice. Too bad Mac Pro is abit way out of my budget and Power Mac G5 are obsoleting soon as Intel processors are used in Macintosh nowadays, so the only way is to put my PC in an Apple desktop enclosure.

After some months of searching I found an empty case for sale because of the logic board failure so I managed to get the enclosure with the spoilt logic board and fans in the case.




The spoilt logic board, which I will explain later why I need it

My intention is to keep the outlook as original as possible even the rear where all the ports will still remain, I do not wish to cut the rear for the mobo I/O like other mods I've seen to fit an ATX or mATX board.

My PC is about 2yrs old. Below are the specs

Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4Ghz @ 3.0Ghz
Gigabyte GA 965P DS3
4 x 1GB Kingston DDR2 667mhz Ram
ZEROtherm BTF90 HSF
MSI nVidia 9600GT 512MB
Seagate 300GB IDE HDD
Seagate 320GB SATA HDD
LG 20x internal super multi DVD writer SATA
Buffalo Wireless G High Speed PCI Adapter WLI2-PCI-G54S
300w Mini PSU

The biggest challenge in this mod is to fit an ATX board inside while not cutting off the rear I/O portion of the case and also my aim is to preserve the inside look as close as original G5. Below is a picture of how the inside of G5 looks like

OK the spoilt logic board as I've mention, I will cut out the rear I/O portion out 1st.

This is the finished product, but not done yet

I will take out both the USB and the speaker out jack

Fit in USB ext cables so that the other end connects to the mobo inside the case.

Bought these from Sim Lim Tower, just connect the points using wire and checked connectivity using multimeter.

This end will go thru the case speaker hole and screw to tighten.

The small part of the logic board is screwed to the case.

This is how the rear looks like, check out the speaker output jack.

Next will proceed to lay the cables. The power button and LED to the mobo, the SATA and IDE cables as well as the rear I/O cables.

Next I moved on to the gfx output. I will be mounting the mobo inside of the case so the original PCI cards won't align to the case opening. So this is what I did.

Use an old nVidia FX5200 card from my old Power Mac G4

Take out the metal plate, bought a both end female DVI plug and fit in. The other hold looks empty so I cut out the VGA port too.

Mount it onto the plate and its done.

Can guess what I'm up to? I will connect a DVI cable inside the case to one end of the female plug, so from the back of the case it looks like a gfx card fitted in.

Next is the mounting of the mobo in. As the standoff of the case do not fit a pc, I do not want to remove them so I used these cardboard, cut and mount onto the original Apple standoff then insert the mobo mounting to mount my ATX board.

The mobo has a PCI slots backing behind so I can screw the PCI cards and secure them. Its cut off from my previous Power Mac G4 case.

Next I moved on to the DVI cables for the gfx card to the female DVI socket. Also added a 4 x USB bracket and plugged to my mobo. Notice DVDROM and HDD are in placed. The HDD are secured to the HDD bracket that comes with the case with lock.

Next I will tap the pinout of the rear exhaust fan then plug to the molex connector of PSU. I set it to run at 7v which produce lesser noise as compared to 12v.

Testing fan, it worked!!

Lastly its almost done, the PSU is placed on the bottom of the case then I cut a cardboard to cover the messy cables

One final test to confirm fan working.

Ok ready to cover up, fitting up the G5 processor cover. Hehe

Cover up the plastic cover.

I've yet to take a latest shot of the rear will do it when free.

Ok its up and running fine. Temp is 42deg on idle OC @ 3.0GHz.
Installed with Leopard 10.5.8 with Apple Aluminum keyboard, Apple Mighty Mouse and 20" Apple Cinema Display. My customised Mac Pro

There are few more things that I can do, to add in the front fan and make a better rear PSU socket. Don't really have much time recently will slowly do and update when done. Thanks for looking and if there are any more ideas to improve do let me know.

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nerdalertdk 19 Sep 2009

Like the way you used the powermac logic board plugs.
looking at the mac with out fans in the front make me wish the led fan in my mac could be turned off

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glay78 19 Sep 2009

Like the way you used the powermac logic board plugs.
looking at the mac with out fans in the front make me wish the led fan in my mac could be turned off

Hi thanks maybe you can change to non led fans?
I have the original G5 front bay fans, still thinking how can I mount them in.

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nerdalertdk 20 Sep 2009

I think this way mounting the fans are clever.

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frankyfire 24 Sep 2009

how did u manage to get the fans running with an ordinary PSU? Did you build the adapter yourself? Is there a manual for that aroumd somewhere? And how will I get it to run at 7v?

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glay78 24 Sep 2009

how did u manage to get the fans running with an ordinary PSU? Did you build the adapter yourself? Is there a manual for that aroumd somewhere? And how will I get it to run at 7v?

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lalonchera 16 Oct 2009

Could you help me out hooking up the front I/O in order for the usb and power button to work?

Would be appreciated.

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Shiznit One 21 Nov 2010

Nice work and love the way you kept the factory connectors. Starting my second hackintosh project with a G5 donor case. Way more of a challenge than I thought when I took it on. If you don't mind a few questions:

- Since the stock G5 PS pushed out way more juice, you have no problems with 300W?
- Is your PS pushing exhaust out the front or back?
- Any experience in trying to keep Apple's airflow channeling in tact? (I notice there's no metal center divider like I've seen in other projects)
- Have you done any other mods since you started the thread in 2009?

I'll be cutting out the back more along the lines of the aquamac mods with a different mobo tray and am up in the air as to where to relocate the PS. The newer Mac Pros seem much more ideal with dual optical, more drive space and PS up top, but alas, the G5 case was free. Also, how loud is it with the dual Cooler Masters and stock fans? I don't remember how loud the original G5 was since it's been so long, but seem to remember them not being the quietest things.

Thanks for the photos and write up. You've given me some great ideas to build from!

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glay78 08 Jan 2011

Nice work and love the way you kept the factory connectors. Starting my second hackintosh project with a G5 donor case. Way more of a challenge than I thought when I took it on. If you don't mind a few questions:


Hi sorry thought I had replied to your questions as I seldom come to this forum now. Sorry for the wait. Here are my answers

- Since the stock G5 PS pushed out way more juice, you have no problems with 300W?
Yea I did not have any problem with the 300W PSU as it is able to power up the whole system with the parts listed

- Is your PS pushing exhaust out the front or back?
My PS exhaust is to the top but so far it hasn't got any heat issue. I would say the G5 case has got good airflow.

- Any experience in trying to keep Apple's airflow channeling in tact? (I notice there's no metal center divider like I've seen in other projects)
i did not have any front fan as I only had the rear fans to draw out the hot air. I actually wanted to keep Apple's airflow channeling but it wasn't easy.

- Have you done any other mods since you started the thread in 2009?
Hehe nope after I did this mod I sold the whole setup to a friend and bought a used MacPro 2006 but sold it half a year later. Now I'm waiting for the arrival of my MacPro 2010

I'll be cutting out the back more along the lines of the aquamac mods with a different mobo tray and am up in the air as to where to relocate the PS. The newer Mac Pros seem much more ideal with dual optical, more drive space and PS up top, but alas, the G5 case was free. Also, how loud is it with the dual Cooler Masters and stock fans? I don't remember how loud the original G5 was since it's been so long, but seem to remember them not being the quietest things.

Thanks for the photos and write up. You've given me some great ideas to build from!


The stocks fan could be loud if you run them at 12 Volts. I did a mod to run it on 7 Volts which they run slower and quieter Hope to see you post pictures of your mod. enjoy modding..cheers and thank you for your kind comments

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HackerWayne819 19 Apr 2011

Other articles

G-Breath Sound Mod - ED Forums


G-BREATH MOD:

Simply replaces the stock G-breathing sounds introduced with 1.2.6 with a new version. I just felt the originals lacked a little something but obviously that is just down to personal preference, so I thought I would share it none the less.


INSTALL:
Either manually copy the files to your DCS World installation and overwrite or utilize JSGME to install the mod.

Backup copies of the 4 overwritten files are included should you wish/need to roll it back from a manual installation.

Either use JSGME or

Replace - DCS World\Sounds\Effects\Aircrafts\Cockpits\GBreath.og g with GBreath.ogg from the ORIGINALS folder in the rar file.
Replace - DCS World\Sounds\Effects\Aircrafts\Cockpits\GBreath_En d.ogg with GBreath_End.ogg from the ORIGINALS folder in the rar file.

Last edited by Tetra; 09-06-2013 at 04:48 PM.

Mod g essay topic

If you don't want to read all the Description, then at least read this part: ". capital ship battles are more challanging and anti-fighter weapons WORK now!"

Here is the a formated readme(aka "Changes.txt"):

Capital ship Rebalance 1.0 Release

DESCRIPTION
This mod was spured on by TerrorTrooper's post about how ineffective anit-fighter capital ship weapons were, and with muiltble other posts about it I thought I'll do something about it because it is WELL in my power. TerrorTrooper has been working with me on this mod sense the 22th of Nov, and has been a GREAT tester, so great I'll use parts of his final report in this description!

The major things I've changed are the Flak and PBE weapon types, before they had HORRID range and fighters would get in the first shots and thus QUICKLY get the upper hand. Which is plain wrong to anyone who has a sense of capital ship battles. Some other things I changed were the recharge rate of all the capital ships, which I did INSTEAD of changing the power of the laser generator, and according to TerrorTrooper it was a "Massive improvement" when he did tests with GPPCs.

Another change I did was change the speed and refire rate of the PPCs, now they fire less per minute, but move faster. So now they seem more like heavy weapons and also have a greater chance at hitting out capital ships. They are still crap at hitting at fighters, but thats how it suppost to be! Taken from the final report:

--From TerrorTrooper:
PPC's :- Tested for balancing.

Tests done in :- Ray, Full Load of 40 X GAMMA PPC's, 9 x 1 GJ Shields.

Test to make sure PPC's still primarily Cap Ship Weapon :-

1 x L :- They could barely hit it. were useless against a fast maneuverable target, as i expected.

1 x K :-. Had a good angle on it, with 3 lots of turrent firing, had about 30 to 35 Seconds sustained fire, A Massive improvement over the standard 10 or so seconds. The Increased speed made them adequately more accurate too with about 80% of my shots hitting the K rather than the previous 60% or so.

1 x Pirate Ray :- Tested in a fair fight.
Made combat Interestingly Difficult, with both ships maintaining heavy & Accurate fire for a good 30 to 40 seconds, Enemy PPC Fire was slightly harder to avoid as expected. Some clever (or should i say lucky) Positioning on the AI's Part allowed it to beat me, I quite liked the challenge. as strafing no longer guarantees you victory.
--End

He also tested the TL's just to make sure the final report was very conclusive, and helpfull. Apparently the Orca is the TL of choice if you are going to use a ship as a use to hold your capped ships, why? It can field 8 Alpha Flaks, and thus can hold it's own vs. 2, prehaps 3, Xenon L's which are agruebly the most powerful M3 in the game. In another part of his test he found the Mammoth, when fielded with 8 Alpha PBEs, can hold it's own vs. 1 MAYBE 2 Xenon Ls and will most likely NOT have a problem when a Pirate Buster or two come along.

I'll LOVE to add more to this, but this is sounding more like an essay then a description, so in conclusion, capital ship battles are more challanging and anti-fighter weapons WORK now!

INSTALLING
. is pretty darn simple. Just extract the cat and dat file to your \mods\ directory in your X3 Reunion directory, then on start-up select this as the mod. I am 90% sure that you will NOT have to restart your game for this mod to take effect.

CHANGELOG
-RANGES:
A-PBE - 1.7km
B-PBE - 2.0km

A-FLAK - 1.6km
B-FLAK - 1.8km

Release 1.0:
-Nothing but very small tweaks
-Random Change: I change the "Midnight Blue" and "Burning Horizon" sector types to have a greater fog range, not like most people will know what they are.

Alpha 0.2:
-Changed PPC's refire rate to be slower, but PPCs do more damage and are a bit faster.
-Beta PBE has had it's damage and refire rate tweaked so it's more effective then the Alpha PBE

Alpha 0.1:
-Changed all the capital ship's laser recharge from sub standard 0.14

or so.
-Flaks now use less energy
-Both Flaks and PBEs fire faster and thus farther e.g.
Flaks can fire around 3.5km(UPDATE: Because of a error, these are not correct. Check up above)
APBEs can fire to 3.8km(UPDATE: Because of a error, these are not correct. Check up above)
BPBEs can fire to around 4.6km(UPDATE: Because of a error, these are not correct. Check up above)

Please report any bugs or requests to galaxy613(AT)verizon.net
-Galaxy613

Thanks to TerrorTrooper for giving me inital ideas and doing awesome testing and reports! Real joy to work with!


_________________
10,000 Lightyears of awesomeness

Last edited by Galaxy613 on Thu, 8. Dec 05, 20:24; edited 7 times in total

I got an idea. You've replied to it in another thread however if you could incorporate it into this mod I'd be super duper happy.

Make it purchaseable as a Heavy Corvette.

Change its stats so it has
5 x 125 MJ shields
5200 MW generator
1 Top turret
1 Bottom turret
1 Left turret
1 Right turret

If you can't add the turrets thats fine. but if you could add the rest to your mod I think it would be even more kick ass.

This is a personal request I am begging hehehe

What do ya think, is it doable.


_________________
COMPUTER SPECS
[Mobo] SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0
[CPU] AMD FX-9370 8 Cores 4.4 - 4.7GHZ 16MB DDR3-1866
[Cooling] Corsair Hydro Series H80I CPU Cooler System
[Video] Evga 580 GTX SC 1.5Gb Ram ==> [Ram] G-Skills Ripjaws X 16GB
[Harddrive] Samsung 840 Series 120GB SSD ==> [Harddrive] WD BLACK 1TB 64MB 7200RPM
[Disc Player] LG 14X BLU-RAY BURNER ==> [Case] Thermaltake A71 Chaser
[Windows 7 Pro]

I actually already have been playing with the game variables myself and have been making what I guess you could call a mod, I am no modder and this is my first attempt at doing so but these are the things I have already done.

Increased speed of all ships- M2 now goes anywhere from 150-165 or so, M1 goes anywhere from 175-200 somewhere around there. Also increased the turn rates for M1, M2 and M6 ships.
Made the flak turret a lot more powerful with less energy use, now no fighters stand a chance against a capital ship.
Increased the speed and decreased energy consumption of most of the weapons
I still need to increase speed of missiles
Increased spawn rate of pirates and general amount of pirates in Universe, also increased their jump range

I am not sure what else I did haha, I havent tested it much yet and like I said I am no modder so I am just trying things out for the first time, I am sure stuff needs to be balanced. It is really just for my own use but I wouldnt mind sharing if anyone wants to try it out.


Also I am curious, what does the MW generator control? Like what does it do?

I have been messing around with M2 Destroyers today. I found that by decreasing the PPC's rounds per minute, yet drastically increasing the speed the Titan became a nicely balanced Destroyer.

Default Titan got whooped with in sector combat from 5 Pirate Nova Raiders. All spawned by me in an empty sector.

After my changes 5 novas lasted a short time and it took 15 to 20 novas to take out the Titan, anything less gave it a fight but where eventually owned

My suggestion for your mod is to make the PPC weapons have much faster projectiles yet a much slower refire rate.

I think i had the GPPC at 20-25 rounds per minute and a 1000mps projectile. (speed may be a little fast tho )

I also altered the turret speeds for PPC weapons, making them faster on the turn, as half the problem of M1/2's is dam slow turrets.

H-Hop Mod - Upgrades - Modifications - Airsoft Forum

Cainor 08 Jun 2012

Motto: Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

This is my first post here and I'm happy to post I hope - something constructive. I'm generally new to airsoft (*started this year/I'm an ex.game developer/now ITIL problem manager). Anyway - below you should be able to see a simplified variant of the G-Hop that I love to call: "H-Hop", as per the next letter in the alphabet and my airsoft club name (*HAT - we don't have limitations on weapons and in our country airosft is a legal sport).
Maybe it has already been done in this simple way - who knows - letter H was free :)

H-Hop (*the hop-mod for the masses)

History. I never knew about hop-mods, I was trying to avoid double-feed :). otherwise I would never seen that the small rubber also works great. I did try a bit with the big full one too, above 3mm and more later, but high spring pressure will affect it and loosen it in time, give minor inconsistent paths, so I think the small size works best. Only testing convinced me to go smaller - I hope it will also convince you to.

Now that I know about them - congratulations to Gunsmith Engineer, Hunterseeker, Star_folder and AnakChan (the Hop-mod precursors). They prove without doubt that anyone can get no more worries about their grouping and distance.

Edit. The H-Hop utiltiy and experience was also tested in the field by greg70. This simple inovation has been stumbled upon in two different places of the globe with the same results. The notable differences are in greese usage as seal and install lubricant.

What is new about this variant?
- It is simpler to install than other Hop moods in my view and more solid.
- It has same results as other great hop mods.
- It eliminates double feed caused by loose hop-up entry.
- It cancels most of the nozzle length problems.
- It also give you the chance to do an easy air seal maintenance of your gun.

Process. Cut, Prepare, Glue it, Grease, Fit, Grease, Test, Install Back.

NOTES: Read now step 22.
The below barrel is 6.03mm, the 6.08mm is still in testing with a friend. I'll keep you posted, but I assume a barrel change will also make you think for a Hop-upgrade too.

I'm going to do many steps to allow everybody to be able to instal a hop-mod.

Step 1: What do you need. The most important is the Grasse NLGI 3 or 4 (hard grease). You can also consider having a silicon spray around. I can only guarantee the Bison superglue, works wonders with metal and rubber.

Step 3: Using a soft sand-paper do some circular turns on the interior of the rubber. Use the sandpaper on the exterior of the barrel as well. If this is your second attempt, also use the cutter to cut remaining superglue and rubber leftovers.

Step 4: Poor some superglue on a flat platform, a corner of something so you can use a small metal screwdriver as a paintbrush later.

Step 5: Put the rubber on the barrel and select the best position based on the cut (*not all cuts are perfect, but on the rubber circle you will find straight parts). Once you selected - move it back a bit. Make sure that you avoid the hop-ruber spine, that should always be in th cut out part / to be removed below side.

Step 6: Now paint with the screwdriver and almost invisible path of superglue on the barrel exterior upper part. Make sure you don't use big drops, even invisible superglue will glue as hell. Be fast when you put the rubber in place, draw it down in 2 seconds or it will harden out of position and you will need to do it all over again. At the end it should look like in the picture. NOTE. If you have superglue on your fingers skin - use nail-paint remover substance from your girflrend to dilue it out. Cleans superglue well.

Step 7: Make sure you inspect the contraption. I pulled a bit hard this time, but still works.

Step 8: Test with a BB if you have pressure. The pressure that you see in the picture is a bit exaggerated from my part.

Step 10: Cut the excess rubber. Clean out the superglue with the cutter. Verify internal part for cleaning.

Step 14: Use some thin grease over the hop-up. And then put it back in the chamber.

Then - use your fingers to guide it inside the Hop-up chamber like a normal hop replacement.
Beside circular small moves you can also pressure the barrel up and down a bit, this will guide excess greese out. It will get in - don't worry. At the end check if inside the hop-up chamber you have a perfect O circle. If not, move the barrel inside out a bit until the hop-up arranges as a perfect ring. You have a lot of grease inside, thus you can do this moves easily.

See next post.
Edited by Cainor, 09 June 2012 - 03:11 AM.

Cainor 08 Jun 2012

Step 15: Put a BB in the chamber and do a naked test to see if your air-pressure will push it out. If you have too much material it will not, so you will do it all over again. But pull less rubber down and less tension.

Step 16: Use the remaining grease from your barrel coating inside your nozzle. While putting the gun on auto until the nozzle remains out as much as possible, then coat inside the nozzle. After that put your finger on the nozzle and fire the first blind round (to set the grease). After that fire on auto in a paper a couple of times to expel remaining parts of grease (remember to use firm grease). After this if you have silicon spray for mechanisms you can also pulverize deep inside your nozzle, don't exaggerate cause it will make it very could and could affect the rubber internally. Quick bursts while waiting 15 sec after each - should be a safe workaround.

Step 19: Put some teflon tape on the top of your barrel to ensure best fit in outer barrel and eliminate vibration.

Step 22: The screws and the mechabox allow you for a max 5mm movement sometimes. Use it well.

Step 23: If you have misfeed, or if you have pressure issues due to nozzle length, you can experiment with this distances to get the perfect setting. It is great if you record this distance before you dismantle the weapon in two so you know how it should be at the end. DO IT NOW - Record it!

This mod can go on any weapon :) even made-up barrels - it can get you to the max distance, what will be next - silent gearbox mod. )

AKs rule!!!!! You can never have enough with you to put down the enemy :) Why change magazine when you can change the weapon - lol -jk :)

jonsun81 08 Jun 2012

Flat hop I believe is the easiest to install, is this comparable to it range wise?

Also step 18, I believe you mean the hop nub, the bucking you slid onto the barrel and that seals the hop up chamber

Kudos for developing your own hop system, but this doesn't seem easier or as effective as the flat hop.

Lefse 08 Jun 2012

This is an interesting mod, but how adjustable is it? It seems like the hop will be kinda fixed?

woogie_man 08 Jun 2012

You should be able to "adjust" it by how much pressure you you put on the strip. If you pull it harder you will have more pressure acting on the bb, less "pull down" and you have less pressure.


This would be a good mod for any one who has a crap load of bbs that they always use. Why not set it and forget it :D

Cainor 08 Jun 2012

QUOTE (jonsun81 @ Jun 8 2012, 07:14 PM)

Flat hop I believe is the easiest to install, is this comparable to it range wise?

Also step 18, I believe you mean the hop nub, the bucking you slid onto the barrel and that seals the hop up chamber

Kudos for developing your own hop system, but this doesn't seem easier or as effective as the flat hop.

Simpler because you don't need to create stuff or modify stuff. Just cut, glue, insert, coat.

Indeed hop nub - I've edited that. Not sure if he flat mod allows the ball to be centered, and it should have less pressure. but it could be similar in results I guess.

Lefse - you don't need to adjust anything, just abandon that old dogma, all the BBs will shoot straight like bullets.

woogie_man - same. The pressure does not affect the up down trajectory. The only up you will get is at the end of flight distance, when the BB will loose energy power and spin its life a bit up and then down. So it will run out of energy before it runs out of spin - smth like that.

This mod is so simple and with such consistent results, that it will be a matter of time before we see it on sale or in almost any weapon. Its easy to install and remove, even a 8 year old can do it.

Its not just the range - but the grouping. it makes you forget that you once had to worry about hop-ups.

I didn't had a crono but I can guarantee you 50-55 meters on less powerful springs. Can anyone crono it for differences? Due to the rubber pressure it should hold the BB more inplace resulting in a better cylinder seal and air "explosion" behind the BB.

Distance is mostly given by spin around the perfect axis of the BB, on old hop-ups the spin is not on the perfect axe but on a more wobeled one or tilted one, etc.
Edited by Cainor, 08 June 2012 - 02:24 PM.

Lefse 08 Jun 2012

Hm, I guess this will be the next mod to test on my guinea pig, aka my AUG.

woogie_man 08 Jun 2012

I will be trying this on my g-spec when I have some time.

I have been toying with the idea of a fixed hop up for the rifle, and this may be a really easy mod :D

Epiphany 08 Jun 2012

50-55 meters can be achieved with a stock gun. Not only that but spring fps has only little to do with your accuracy and shot distance. You can achieve up to 200 feet easily with a p90 stock barrel .25 gram bbs and with w rhop or flat hop.

greg70 08 Jun 2012

No offense Cainor, and I hate to rain on your parade, but I've already done something very similar to this (without the grease mod). It actually worked very well for the amount of time that it took me, and it was definately an improvement over the stock hopup. As airborne101 called it "sort of a trifecta of G-hop, R-hop, and Flat Hop" because it encompassed a feature of all three hops.

But since you were the first to post it with an actual name you take the credit lol. Anyways, I was able to get consistent hits at a torso sized target from about 200 ft away. My rifle was shooting 360 fps and I was using .28g bbs. For those of you who aren't patient enough to do an r-hop install, this is the mod for you. Mine only took a few minutes and it made a noticeable difference.

billison 08 Jun 2012

can you explain this "grease" mod more?

also, I'd re think the name.

hunterseeker5 09 Jun 2012

Kudos for thinking outside the box, but you basically just reinvented a cruder version of the G-hop from what I can see:
http://gungineer.mat. G-HOP_index.htm

Keep on it though, outside the box thinking is how we push this sport forward. D

Cainor 09 Jun 2012

QUOTE (greg70 @ Jun 9 2012, 02:17 AM)

No offense Cainor, and I hate to rain on your parade, but I've already done something very similar to this (without the grease mod). It actually worked very well for the amount of time that it took me, and it was definately an improvement over the stock hopup. As airborne101 called it "sort of a trifecta of G-hop, R-hop, and Flat Hop" because it encompassed a feature of all three hops.

But since you were the first to post it with an actual name you take the credit lol. Anyways, I was able to get consistent hits at a torso sized target from about 200 ft away. My rifle was shooting 360 fps and I was using .28g bbs. For those of you who aren't patient enough to do an r-hop install, this is the mod for you. Mine only took a few minutes and it made a noticeable difference.

Great stuff - I'm happy that I'm not the only one - reminds me about the G. Bell story. Please describe more your experiences, glue and any other differences you may have used. Failure points etc.

greg70 I have also edited you name in the first post. I hope you would be ok with this credit.

hunterseeker5 I have one more notable modification outisde the box :) but I will post later.

- Piston Seal Mod - in use with great results.
- Ninja Mod - Silent weapon - In testing.

If I used the full pressure on a G-Hop layout then the ball would have been stuck. Thats the key - to apply pressure on only half the ball.

Epiphany could be more, who knows - more testing should be done. Not all stock hop-ups work 100%.

billison the "greese" mod its a simple way to use hard greese to do some airsealing around the hop and in the nozzle, without too much trouble. Its also good to spray some silicone via the nozzle inside the cylinder.
Edited by Cainor, 09 June 2012 - 03:16 AM.

ninzalong 09 Jun 2012

it's can use on sniper bolt action. ( like vsr-10, SVD A&K )

Cainor 09 Jun 2012

QUOTE (ASESINO @ Jun 9 2012, 11:56 PM)

so the h_hop mod is a nubless and fixed hop like thespringer's ones. but aniway,what will happen if I use a nub together with the H_hop?

It will block the BB or put some unwanted spin on it. Nubs are a thing of the past, they only generate unbalanced axe spins for BBs. Hop mod weapons will always get the edge. My advice would be for you to be the first - rather than the last to get the range at the next games :) (if you are not happy with your current hopup) plus you don't modify anything and you only loose an old hop-up rubber thats tbeing cut. Its a win win situation.

On the AkM I have a 2.5mm rubber strip and the nub is there, but I apply no pressure. On the RPK I have a 3.5mm rubber strip with max pressure. Since I had a bigger Nube - I had to take it out cause it could pressure the rubber down - and there is no need for it at all - nub=bad. The BB spins on metal and it is hold in place by the rubber pressure. This inital hold also helps with the pressure behind the ball and in the cylinder. If you think about it you have lots of benefits just for going with the small solution. the G-Hop will hold/stop the BB ball if it applied the same pressure - and thus it will not fire - while on the H-Hop it will.

Lefse 10 Jun 2012

I see one huge disadvantage, it's not adjustable. What if you run out of the bb weight it's set up for, and have to use .20's instead of .28's? Then the hop will be way off. With a traditional hop-up, you can just adjust for different bb weights. Also, how does this hold up when cleaning the barrel? I clean my barrels quite often, and I clan them thoroughly.

I'm not criticizing you, just want to understand this mod, as it's an interesting mod.

Sasori 10 Jun 2012

QUOTE (Lefse @ Jun 10 2012, 12:02 PM)

I see one huge disadvantage, it's not adjustable. What if you run out of the bb weight it's set up for, and have to use .20's instead of .28's? Then the hop will be way off. With a traditional hop-up, you can just adjust for different bb weights. Also, how does this hold up when cleaning the barrel? I clean my barrels quite often, and I clan them thoroughly.

I'm not criticizing you, just want to understand this mod, as it's an interesting mod.

Exactly my thoughts, I have been following the thread as I am convinced we can get better performance from our hop ups (using a flat hop myself) but I wondered how is it possible to fine tune this mod to the BB brand and weight every player use.

Cainor 10 Jun 2012

QUOTE (Sasori @ Jun 10 2012, 02:34 PM)

Exactly my thoughts, I have been following the thread as I am convinced we can get better performance from our hop ups (using a flat hop myself) but I wondered how is it possible to fine tune this mod to the BB brand and weight every player use.

I fully agree - this mod should be used only when your existing hop-up does not work well or your grouping is poor and you have tested them all. Or you don't have ways to make different rubber forms and setups. I'm still experimenting with H-Hop. Maybe next time I will do a V-mod just for the simple design put to be able to have a Nub.

Btw on the AKM the mod is so small - 2.5mm that the old hop-up with Nub works to fine.
Edited by Cainor, 10 June 2012 - 10:12 AM.

ASESINO 10 Jun 2012

Thanks Cainor!!, I�ll try this Mod with one spare barrel and the used hopup rubber of my G36C, it�s like chewing gum (I swear)but will work for this experiment .

Cainor 10 Jun 2012

QUOTE (ASESINO @ Jun 10 2012, 05:12 PM)

Thanks Cainor!!, I�ll try this Mod with one spare barrel and the used hopup rubber of my G36C, it�s like chewing gum (I swear)but will work for this experiment .

Please do - I'm trying to determine what lenght is best for what barrel and what BB weight. Also if you have too much rubber, you can always use the cutter to make it smaller before removing it all and going again with a new rubber but a smaller pull/tension. Also if you are going to test you need long ranges. Also remember to record the lenght between the mechabox and the chamber - those always change.

There is a lot of room for experimenting.

One more thing - the RPK has a 640mm barrel and 150SP spring - and it still does not impress me more than the small AKM. does anyone think that long barrels can create problems rather than help?
Edited by Cainor, 10 June 2012 - 10:11 AM.

Sasori 10 Jun 2012

About barrels, I personally think that a 400mm long barrel is the sweet spot for airsoft, beyond that the length/performance ratio is not so much improved, not to mention the gun becomes harder to wield and carry, making the marginal performance increase not worthy while playing, at least in my book, as I prefer to wait a bit more until my target is in in range or just move some meters forward in a small run which may be less than 5m or lob a bit the BB. so many options IMO while keeping the gun comfortable to shoot and carry.

Again, its just my opinion forged by my playing style, mostly highly moving rifleman role

Lefse 10 Jun 2012

I definitely agree. My AK with a stock G&G 370mm barrel is alot more accurate and has alot better compression than my AUG with a 509mm Systema tighbore barrel. 400mm being the sweetspot sounds right to me, the AK's barrel is very close to that at 370mm, and it's very easy to get compression out of. I'm getting 410fps or so out of an M120 spring. The AUG only gets about 370-380fps with an identical spring. The AK evn has a slightly leaky nozzle, while the AUG has no airleaks whatsoever.

Star_folder 10 Jun 2012

I'm fairly curious about the longevity of this modification. How many bbs have your test barrels seen to date?

I will admit, I'm not too keen on the idea of a fixed hop. While I do see the advantages of having such a thing, being able to adjust my hop is much more important to me. Being able to stretch my range a bit more, drop it a bit, use it for curving the bb at different angles.

ASESINO 10 Jun 2012

I�ve destroyed the rubber just to find your mod so hard to do . the real problem of this MOD it�s to find the right glue, I�ve tried Loctite INDUSTRIAL, Loctite Glue, Loctite with rubber, even Epoxy, with no luck, probably I�m too clumsy

Cainor 11 Jun 2012

QUOTE (ASESINO @ Jun 10 2012, 11:24 PM)

I�ve destroyed the rubber just to find your mod so hard to do . the real problem of this MOD it�s to find the right glue, I�ve tried Loctite INDUSTRIAL, Loctite Glue, Loctite with rubber, even Epoxy, with no luck, probably I�m too clumsy


Indeed - Bison Superglue that I have there is aswome for rubber-metal bonds. It hardens very late on metal but fast in contact with rubber. Also remember to just paint an invisible lair.

QUOTE (Star_folder @ Jun 10 2012, 11:13 PM)

I'm fairly curious about the longevity of this modification. How many bbs have your test barrels seen to date?

I will admit, I'm not too keen on the idea of a fixed hop. While I do see the advantages of having such a thing, being able to adjust my hop is much more important to me. Being able to stretch my range a bit more, drop it a bit, use it for curving the bb at different angles.

Around 5000 0.30BBs and its holding fine. Best experience is seen on Auto.
I'm redoing the RPK since I put so much pressure and I don't like the end distance spin. I will probably test minimal pressure with a double rubber just on top. It will be a partial flat hop.

Distance? - Let me put it this way - it is up to perception, Hop-mods will always get you top results in grouping and max distance as well as remove a lot of unconsistent shootings. (ex: 5 normal one down, etc). Some cool Hop-ups on sale will also do the same.

Also - I love the simple nature of Hop-up mod work and experimenting in order to find the simplest possible implementations.
Edited by Cainor, 11 June 2012 - 04:52 AM.

Ranger420 11 Jun 2012

After running into a finacial setback this seems perfect! I wanted to try an R hop but with no income currently and a few old buckings laying around,this I can try..lol. I am afraid of not having an adjuster though. I have different weight bb's and may take some time to see whats best for each. Good job man.

Cainor 11 Jun 2012

QUOTE (Ranger420 @ Jun 11 2012, 04:58 PM)

After running into a finacial setback this seems perfect! I wanted to try an R hop but with no income currently and a few old buckings laying around,this I can try..lol. I am afraid of not having an adjuster though. I have different weight bb's and may take some time to see whats best for each. Good job man.

Have fun - please note that I have changed some pictures with the work from today - refresh page. Smaller rubber space and I run out of duck tape. I cannot edit the original text.

As a side note - if you don't pull the rubber it will fould/fold in chamber and if you pull to much you create other problems. So before glue you can pull to have just a nice pressure on a BB (you can always test with no glue to see pressure and pull needs) - once you know how hard to pull - go for it.

Also as a fun experiment for all - how abouyt a copper mod :) I used it to set different pressures on an H-Hop elastic. Problem is that the interior of the hop-up will need shaveing or it will pressure the hop too much.

billison 11 Jun 2012

I'll remain a skeptic untill other members here test this out.

Also, can you explain this " grease" mod? Is it more than just slapping grease on your gun and calling it a mod?

woogie_man 11 Jun 2012

Why can't you still use the adjuster on the hop up? Why not add a nubbing ontop of this mod and see what happens?

Play with it all you want and see what you can't come up with!

Ranger420 11 Jun 2012

QUOTE (woogie_man @ Jun 11 2012, 05:56 PM)

Play with it all you want and see what you can't come up with!


Thats what she said! Hahaha. But yeah I could try one with a nub as well. It may take me awhile before I can try this mod though. Where I live is always windy! Nothing but corn fields around me so I cant test fire anything for accuracy here.
Edited by Ranger420, 11 June 2012 - 11:01 PM.

Epiphany 11 Jun 2012

You wouldn't really be able to use a nub to adjust it do to it already protruding so much. Also you can use a nub to have it much more secure though.